The African safari finds itself on most bucket-lists, and not without reason. But it is also likely to be one of your more expensive holidays, so it's best to prepare well for it. Here's a guide to get you started:
Why Africa?
Given the time, effort and expense that any African safari demands, why not stick to the sanctuaries closer home like Ranthambore or Corbett? First, consider Africa's enormous diversity: even a country like Tanzania, one-third the size of India, has nearly as many mammal and bird species. Then, there are the odds: in India, safaris are all about spotting the elusive tiger in the dense forest, where luck plays a major role. In contrast, the vast savannahs of Africa afford good visibility from long distances so that on any given day, you stand a good chance of seeing the Big Five—the African lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and cape buffalo—besides countless zebra, giraffes, hippos, and antelopes. And finally, it's the sheer range of spectacular experiences, such as the annual wildebeest migration, the largest such movement of animals anywhere in the world. And if that isn't special enough for you, take a hot-air balloon ride to view these giant herds on the move across the Serengeti.
When is the best time to go?
All the safari countries lie south of the Equator, so the best time to safari is their dry winter season, which runs between late June and October. This is when thirsty animals congregate around water holes and rivers, and the foliage is less dense, making them easier to spot. If you want to see the wildebeest stampede across the Grumeti and Mara rivers on their way north to Kenya, July-August is when you should go. If you are hell-bent on seeing a lion or a cheetah make a kill, plan on the southern Serengeti during the wildebeest calving season, which lasts for a six-week period from late January to February.
What African country is right for you?
You are spoilt for choice in Africa, and where you go depends largely on your interests and budget. Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa are popular for offering the complete safari experience, but Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, Uganda and Rwanda are also very interesting–the latter being the only ones to offer gorilla tracking. Botswana offers experiences across the budgets.
What kind of safari should you choose?
You can choose to walk, drive or even fly to see the animals. A fly-in safari, where a small plane takes you straight from the airport to game park, will help you cover maximum ground in the minimum time, but will also cost you the most. At the other extreme, those willing to rough it out can opt for a mobile camping safari, where you sleep in small canvas tents, pitch in with the camp chores and go for guided walks through the bush. These safaris are popular with younger travellers who are on a budget and don't mind large groups. The most popular mid-range option is the drive-in safari where you move around in closed Jeep-type vehicles. However, be prepared to put up with long hours on bumpy dirt roads moving camp to camp.
What will it cost?
A drive-in safari—the most popular option—in Tanzania can cost anywhere from $3,000 (Rs2 lakh) to $12,000 (Rs8.5 lakh) per head, for a 10-day trip. At the top end, you will be staying in the lap of luxury on a private game reserve with the option of seeing the game on horseback or by helicopter. For those willing to suffer the privations of no swimming pool (or spa!), the less expensive lodges are perfectly adequate. You will still have attached private baths, running hot and cold water and well-cooked meals.
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If you want to cut costs, aim for the shoulder- and low-seasons, by opting for tents over lodges and by joining a larger group on a scheduled tour. However it's best not cut back on the number of days–to get the full safari experience, you need a minimum of a week to ensure you don't miss out on once-in-a-lifetime animal sightings.
What is a typical safari day like?
Early to bed, early to rise is the trick to the perfect safari. Chances of seeing a fresh kill are much higher in the morning, and the light is just right for photography. You will spend hours in the safari jeep traversing miles and miles of grassland, so prepare to be patient. Don't expect to see all of the Big Five on any given day–nature is unpredictable and this is not a city zoo. After lunch and an afternoon rest, you can sally forth for the evening game drive, often the best time to see the wildlife as the big predators begin to stir from their heat-of-the-day slumber. Similarly, their prey become ever more active and alert as the day ends with another magnificent African sunset. You will usually return just before dark in time for a shower and pre-dinner drinks around the campfire before you call it a day.
Will the kids have fun?
Safaris can be wonderful learning experiences for your kids but bear in mind that this is not a beach holiday. The ability to sit patiently during long game drives when nothing much may be happening is key to enjoyment. Also consider that many game lodges and safari camps do not accept kids below 12 years. Some that do offer specialist ‘Kids Safari Clubs', which run various programmes for children, and teach them about the bush. But these are often run at the same time as the game drives, which seems to defeat the whole point of taking the kids along on a safari. More active and adventurous activities such as walking, canoeing, horse-riding or primate tracking also have restrictions on children below 16 years. The bottom line: wait until your kids are older before doing the safari.
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What will make your safari a success?
Unquestionably, the single most important factor that could make or break your safari is the quality of your guide. Your ideal guide is someone with great people and communication skills and with a deep knowledge and experience of the bush and animal behaviour. On this recent trip, since our group was in two vehicles, we had two guides who had very different skills and abilities. The lead guide Philemon, was gregarious and understood our needs well. Though a bit of a prima donna, he had an amazing ability to get us to the right place at the right time so that we had some superb animal sightings. The second guide, though quieter, seemed more well-read and had an enormous knowledge of everything to do with wildlife and with Tanzanian culture and geology. My advice would be to do as much online research as possible and get references on good guides–then ask your safari organiser to book that person.
Who can help me plan?
Here are three tour operators who can plan your safari: Tanzania Serengeti Adventure : Our group was referred to them and they provided an excellent value-for-money experience. Run by a very efficient and responsive Indian-origin couple, Iris and Jordan D'Souza'. Chalo Africa : An India-based travel company specialising in African safari travel, with a deep knowledge and passion for the continent. They tailor each proposal to their guest's budget and expectations. Abercrombie & Kent : If you want to go with a leading global brand name and experience the luxury end of safari travel. They run safaris in nine countries and own many properties all over Africa.